Tuesday, 5 March 2013

Ignorant Aussies Abroad

It has been Chinese New Year for, what feels like, the whole time we have been here. Preparations for ages before, then the 'celebration period, followed by the recovery and clean-up. During this whole time I have watched armies of (Indian/Burmese) workers erect and dismantle huge pavilions on spare pieces of ground scattered throughout Hougang and other suburbs.



These became markets selling all manner of CNY decorations, flowers and food plus karaoke venues and they appeared and disappeared, seemingly over-night.

Following the witnessing of the recent karaoke tent down the road, it was with interest and trepidation that I watched the erection of another large white tent on a piece of spare ground below our bed-room window this past week. Tables and chairs filled the interior. Flowers decorated the spaces between tables and displays of Chinese art and signage were also created. Whilst generally quiet, there being no karaoke apparent for the first few nights, there were games of mahjong being played at some of the tables until well into the small hours of the morning.

Was this an international mahjong competition we had not been informed of? Who knew?

With this in the backs of our minds Heather and I made our way to Chinatown for a wander and lunch. Subsequent to these pleasant events we eventually made our way to a DBS bank to transact some business.

(NOTE: this process is a story in, and of, itself.)

On our way to the bank we noticed another of the aforementioned white tents filled with the same contents plus people dressed in, what appeared to be, a uniform of sorts. Filled with a curiosity and finally deciding to act on it by asking questions, your trusty correspondent strode into the midst of the tent gaining the attention of a young lady. Said young lady appeared somewhat startled by my approach. I, of course, did not let this phase me as it was the default reaction of most females with whom I attempt to converse.

Unable to understand what it was I was jabbering about she was saved by the arrival of another, older lady who, hearing and understanding what I was on about explained that it was a FUNERAL!!!!! And we were in the midst of it.

Back at Hougang we now understood what it was set up under our window.

Later the same night......

There comes a smell of something burning, followed shortly after by the sound of, what seems to us to be, Rugby players sending up cheers during a post-match drinking session. Peering through our window we see a large group of locals standing and chanting at a huge bonfire.


This fire being, as it turns out, the funeral pyre symbolical, we hope, of the recently departed.

Needless to say I had no further questions to ask about what was going on.

FOOTNOTE: Unfortunately I have prior history when it comes to this sort of thing. During a visit to Malacca last year, and whilst wandering the back-streets, we came upon a procession consisting of drums, trumpets, signs and, most significantly, a large black people-mover.


Hoping to get great shots of a some local pageant I jumped out into the middle of it all snapping away eagerly only to eventually realize its true significance.

DOUBLE FOOTNOTE: Further inquiries and observations have revealed more facts about Chinese funerals.

The bonfire we witnessed last night is not, in fact, the recently departed being disposed of. That happened this afternoon in a process more in tune with our experience back in Aus.

Be advised though, the body of the deceased remains in the marquee for the whole time, which in this case was around four days. The bonfire fuel consists of paper and cardboard replicas of items the deceased used, owned, wore or appreciated in this mortal life - yes, I am talking clothes, cars, furniture etc - and can be purchased in Chinatown at shops whose sole purpose is the supply of said replicas. The object being that they go with the deceased into the next life.

It is worth noting here that, should one of these tents appear in the vicinity of where one resides, it is a good idea on the third night to close any windows down-wind of the crematorial fire so as to block the ash and soot emanating from the fire when lit from entering one's unit. And no, eleven floors up is not high enough to get away from it. For the record, the sound of chanting is a good 'heads-up' that the fire is ignited.

Again for the record. The karaoke did happen. Lots of LOUD recorded music accompanied by equally loud and dreadful singing which could only be confirmation to the departed that they were going to a better place.

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